We explored 900 Greek islands in 20 years and this 21,000-resident Cyclades capital where rebetiko blues cost €12 and locals still outnumber tourists
After exploring 900 Greek islands over two decades, photographing everything from Santorini’s caldera chaos to Mykonos’ celebrity-packed beaches, we made a ferry connection mistake that changed how we see the Cyclades forever. We ended up in Ermoupoli, Syros’ neoclassical capital, where 21,000 permanent residents still outnumber tourists even in peak season. The island’s nickname—the Lady … Lire plus








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