The ferry rounds Bequia’s southern headland and there it appears: Lower Bay’s turquoise crescent where Princess Margaret once anchored the Royal Yacht Britannia. Today, this same cove stays empty while Grace Bay draws cruise ships. The water holds that same royal-quality clarity, but guesthouses here cost $150 instead of $500.
No direct flights reach Bequia. This ferry dependency filters mass tourism naturally. Princess Margaret discovered this in the 1950s during her Caribbean yacht tours, choosing this sheltered bay over busier Grenadines islands.
The bay that royalty chose
Princess Margaret didn’t visit by accident. Lower Bay offers perfect yacht anchoring: deep enough for large vessels, protected from trade winds, crystal clear for swimming. The 1950s yachting elite understood what modern travelers are rediscovering.
The bay curves in a perfect crescent. White coral sand meets turquoise water that stays calm year-round. Palm-covered hills frame both ends, creating natural windbreaks. Colorful wooden boathouses dot the shoreline like a Caribbean postcard.
No cruise ships can dock here. Bequia deliberately avoided building deep-water ports, preserving what attracted royalty decades ago. The island’s 4,000 residents maintain this barefoot luxury philosophy: elegant but never overdeveloped.
Water that doesn’t need filters
Lower Bay’s turquoise comes from coral sand reflecting sunlight through shallow water. The bay’s protected position creates glass-calm conditions perfect for snorkeling. Visibility reaches 60 feet on calm days.
What makes it turquoise
Crushed coral creates the white sand bottom that reflects blue light upward. The bay’s shallow gradient (10-20 feet deep) allows maximum light penetration. Coral reefs protect the entrance, filtering out rough Atlantic swells.
The snorkeling secret
Swim 50 yards from shore to reach healthy coral formations. Sea turtles patrol these reefs regularly, unlike the crowded turtle experiences at Tobago Cays. Parrotfish, angelfish, and sergeant majors thrive in this protected environment.
A day at Lower Bay
Taxis from Port Elizabeth cost $25-35 for the scenic 10-minute drive. The road curves around hillsides before revealing the bay below. Most visitors arrive after 10am, leaving dawn hours peaceful.
Morning arrival
Local fishermen work the bay at sunrise using traditional methods. Their colorful boats anchor in the shallows while they repair nets on shore. By 9am, they’ve departed for deeper waters, leaving the bay quiet.
Afternoon rhythms
Beach vendors offer grilled conch and fresh fish for $12-18. Rum punch costs $8-10 at informal shacks. No resorts clutter the shoreline, just Princess Margaret Beach’s royal connection visible through palm trees.
The Bequia difference
Lower Bay preserves working fishing village authenticity. Traditional whaling boats (Bequia holds the Caribbean’s only IWC whaling license) anchor alongside pleasure craft. No neon signs, golf courses, or chain restaurants exist on the entire island.
The ferry system creates natural crowd control. Unlike islands with airports accepting jumbo jets, Bequia limits visitor numbers through transportation logistics. This protects the quiet Caribbean atmosphere tourists seek but rarely find.
Boat-building traditions continue here since Scottish settlers arrived in the 1800s. Craftsmen work on traditional sloops visible from the beach, maintaining skills that attracted mid-century yachting culture.
Your questions about Lower Bay answered
When should I visit?
December through April offers 81-86°F temperatures with minimal rainfall. Trade winds keep humidity comfortable. This dry season provides calmest seas for snorkeling and clearest underwater visibility.
How much does it cost?
Guesthouses near Lower Bay range $100-250 nightly. Local meals cost $15-30 versus $40-60 at resort islands. Ferry travel from Barbados or St. Vincent costs $15-20, significantly less than regional flights.
How does it compare to Princess Margaret Beach?
Lower Bay maintains working village character while Princess Margaret Beach caters to pure relaxation. Both offer identical turquoise water quality with 20-minute walks between them. Lower Bay has more local fishing activity, Princess Margaret more tourist amenities.
Lower Bay delivers Caribbean perfection without tourist infrastructure. The turquoise water that impressed royalty 70 years ago remains unchanged, protected by ferry-only access and local resistance to overdevelopment.