The air filled my lungs with a crisp, eucalyptus-scented breeze as I stood on the wooden deck of our mountain cabin, gazing at an ocean of clouds below. The early morning sun cast golden rays across this ethereal landscape, with the Atlantic Ocean stretching endlessly beyond. This wasn’t a dream—it was my first morning in Madeira, Portugal’s enchanted island, where ancient forests rise from the sea and cabins perch above the clouds.
Discovering Madeira’s ancient laurissilva forest
The UNESCO-protected Laurissilva Forest is one of the largest surviving laurel forests in the world, a prehistoric ecosystem that once covered much of Southern Europe. Walking beneath its ancient canopy feels like stepping back in time—65 million years, to be exact. Twisted tree trunks covered in emerald moss create natural archways along paths that have existed for centuries.
“Our forest is living history,” explained Manuel, our local guide. “These trees witnessed the first Portuguese settlers arriving in 1419. Some laurel trees here are over 800 years old.”
Hiking the levadas: engineering marvels through misty wonderlands
Madeira’s ingenious network of levadas—narrow water channels built as early as the 16th century—double as perfect hiking trails. We chose the Levada do Rei (King’s Levada), which winds 5.4 kilometers through dense laurel forest to the crystalline springs of Ribeiro Bonito. The narrow path hugged mountainsides, occasionally disappearing into moss-draped tunnels carved through volcanic rock.
The most memorable moment came when we rounded a corner to face a valley enveloped in swirling mist, similar to the spectacular waterfall gardens found elsewhere on the island. The clouds parted just enough to reveal mountains rising sharply on all sides, draped in fifty shades of green.
Our cloud-kissed sanctuary: mountain cabins with infinite views
After researching accommodation options (including transparent mountain retreats elsewhere in Europe), we chose a traditional wooden cabin near Fanal Forest at 1,100 meters elevation. Each morning, we awoke to a sea of clouds below our balcony, with distant Atlantic views when the mist cleared.
The simple cabin featured a stone fireplace, pine interiors, and panoramic windows that transformed into nature’s television screen. Sunrises painted the clouds pink and gold; afternoons brought dramatic weather changes as clouds rolled over mountains like ocean waves.
The eucalyptus-scented air: Madeira’s natural aromatherapy
Throughout our hikes, the air carried distinct scents that changed with elevation and location. The unmistakable fresh aroma of eucalyptus dominated many trails, offering natural aromatherapy similar to monastery retreats. In other areas, the scent of laurel, heather, and wet moss created an intoxicating natural perfume.
“We have our own perfume factory,” joked Maria, a local restaurant owner. “In summer, the wild fennel and eucalyptus make the whole island smell like heaven.”
Nightfall above the clouds: stars that rival the darkest skies
When darkness fell, our cabin’s location revealed another treasure: night skies rivaling those of Europe’s darkest sky destinations. Away from coastal light pollution and above the cloud layer, the Milky Way appeared as a brilliant river of stars overhead.
Unlike traditional coastal stays or chartered boat vacations, our mountain cabin offered a completely different perspective of Madeira—one where silence was broken only by distant waterfalls and gentle forest sounds.
When to experience Madeira’s cloud forests
Summer (June-September) offers the most reliable weather, though spring brings wildflowers and autumn delivers golden light with fewer tourists. The cabin experience costs roughly €100-150 per night, with hiking trails accessible year-round through free self-guided walks or guided tours (€40-60).
Standing on that cabin deck on our final morning, watching sunlight pierce through swirling mist while breathing eucalyptus-scented air, I realized Madeira had offered something increasingly rare: a true escape into nature that felt both otherworldly and deeply grounding. The ancient forests had worked their magic on us, leaving memories as enduring as the laurel trees themselves.