M-22 curves through cherry orchards before the road opens to Lake Michigan. Leland appears at the river mouth where weathered gray shanties line still water. Population 400. Thirty minutes from Traverse City. The fishing village that never stopped fishing.
Most Great Lakes fishing towns became museums or disappeared. Leland kept working. Two commercial fisheries operate from century-old smokehouses. Nets dry on wooden racks each morning. The smell of applewood smoke and fresh whitefish defines the air before 8am.
The shanties still smell of smoke
Fishtown occupies both banks of the Leland River where it meets Lake Michigan. Silver-gray wood aged by decades of weather. The buildings lean slightly, settled into their pilings. Morning light catches water reflections dancing on weathered beams.
Carlson’s Fishery has operated since 1904, now in its sixth generation. Fishermen clean catch on docks while visitors watch. Traditional smoking methods unchanged. The ice house built in the 1920s still stores product. This isn’t historical recreation.
The Fishtown Preservation Society raised $5.29 million in 2025 to rehabilitate eight structures while maintaining working operations. Over 300,000 visitors walk these docks annually. The balance works because commercial fishing continues as primary function, not backdrop.
What makes Fishtown different
Working waterfront, not tourist replica
Two active commercial fisheries process whitefish and lake trout daily. Charter boats depart for Lake Michigan waters at dawn. Fish tugs return mid-afternoon with fresh catch. The narrow pathways between buildings create an intimate warren where commerce happens in plain view.
Carlson’s sells fresh-caught whitefish, smoked fish, fish sausage, and smoked fish pate directly from the dock. Sample before buying. The fishery processes catch using methods established a century ago. Visitors encounter authentic work, not performance.
Great Lakes maritime heritage preserved
One of few preserved Great Lakes fishing villages where operations continue. The 1880s origins remain visible in building construction and dock layout. Ice houses and smokehouses serve original purposes. Connection to regional fishing culture that once lined these shores.
Commercial fishing faces decline across the Great Lakes. Whitefish populations struggle. The industry shrinks yearly. Leland represents living history that may not last another generation. The authenticity carries weight because it’s genuinely threatened.
The experience of walking Fishtown
Morning on the docks
Dawn arrival recommended, before boutiques open at 10am. Fishermen work in silence. Wooden docks creak underfoot. Water laps against pilings. Watch fish tugs return with catch around 7am. The morning routine predates tourism by decades.
Old rope and weathered wood textures dominate. Fishing nets hang from beams. The enclosed warren of buildings creates pockets of shadow and light. Late spring through early fall offers optimal conditions. Winter brings quiet but seasonal closures reduce activity.
Where commerce and heritage meet
Boutiques occupy former fish storage buildings. Wild Lettie, Leland Gal, galleries in repurposed shanties. The Dam Candy Store sells nostalgia-priced treats. Local artisan ceramics at Benjamin Maier nearby. This mix functions because commercial fishing anchors the authenticity.
Verterra Winery sits within walking distance. Small-town main street dining options. Fresh whitefish remains the signature local product. The village maintains scale. No chain restaurants, no manufactured attractions. Boyne Falls sits 90 minutes southeast for winter lake-effect snow.
Beyond the fishing village
Ferry to South Manitou Island departs from Leland Harbor. Whaleback Natural Area offers trails with Lake Michigan views. Leland River kayaking available through local outfitters. The town itself requires 2-3 hours for unhurried exploration. Full day recommended with lunch and nearby trails.
Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City sits 45 minutes away. Peak summer weekends draw crowds. Shoulder seasons in late May and September offer quieter visits with pleasant weather. Accommodation costs run medium-to-high range, $120-200 per night for mid-range options. Door County sits 3 hours south across Lake Michigan.
Your questions about Leland answered
How much time do you need in Fishtown?
Minimum 2-3 hours for unhurried dock exploration and shop browsing. Full day allows morning fishing activity observation, lunch at local restaurants, and nearby trail hiking. Weekend stay provides multiple morning visits before crowds arrive. Early arrival essential for authentic fishing village atmosphere.
Can you buy fresh fish directly from fishermen?
Yes. Carlson’s Fishery sells fresh-caught whitefish, smoked fish varieties, and unique fish sausage directly from dock-side retail. Morning arrival offers best selection. Samples available before purchase. Traditional smoking methods produce distinctive flavor. Product availability depends on daily catch and seasonal fishing patterns.
How does this compare to New England fishing villages?
Less commercialized than Maine tourist harbors like Kennebunkport or Bar Harbor. Active operations versus museum-piece ports. Midwest access from Chicago or Detroit takes 5-6 hours versus 8-plus to New England coast. Lower accommodation costs than peak-season coastal New England. Similar pre-tourism working village feel to remote Hawaiian valleys. Great Lakes maritime culture distinct from Atlantic traditions.
The ferry back to Traverse City leaves at 4:30pm. Most visitors make it with time to spare. I almost missed it once because someone at the dock started talking about the whitefish decline. The conversation mattered more than the schedule.