The Isles of Scilly are often described as England’s best-kept secret, but St. Mary’s—the largest of these enchanted islands—deserves special attention. Just 28 miles off Cornwall’s coast, this island paradise combines Caribbean-blue waters with quintessential British charm. While only 1,800 people call this 2.5-square-mile island home, its rich tapestry of history, wild natural beauty, and unhurried pace create an experience unlike anywhere else in Britain.
Why this forgotten archipelago rivals the Mediterranean
St. Mary’s boasts a microclimate that feels distinctly un-British. Warmed by the Gulf Stream, the island enjoys temperatures several degrees higher than mainland UK. The result? Crystal-clear turquoise waters surrounding pristine beaches that would make you think you’d landed in the Mediterranean rather than off England’s southwestern tip. Like some hidden Atlantic paradises, the island’s relative obscurity means you’ll often have stretches of shoreline entirely to yourself.
Hugh Town: The charming hub with three perfect beaches
The island’s main settlement, Hugh Town, sits on a narrow isthmus flanked by beaches on both sides. Porthcressa, Town Beach, and Porthmellon each offer distinct experiences but share the same impossibly blue waters. The town itself consists of winding streets lined with stone cottages, artisan shops, and cozy pubs where locals share tales of shipwrecks and smugglers over Cornish ale.
“Our island has more history per square foot than most cities,” explains Mary Hitchens, whose family has lived on St. Mary’s for eight generations. “Just walk in any direction and you’ll stumble upon something that’s hundreds, if not thousands, of years old.”
The ancient stone sentinels that watch over the island
St. Mary’s boasts remarkable Bronze Age sites that predate Stonehenge. The burial chambers at Innisidgen and Bant’s Carn stand as silent witnesses to the island’s earliest settlers. These 4,000-year-old stone monuments occupy commanding positions with sweeping Atlantic views, creating a profound connection between past and present. Much like hidden medieval fortresses elsewhere in Europe, these ancient sites reward those who venture beyond the usual tourist paths.
The 16th-century fortress with harbor views worth millions
The Garrison Walls encircle the western end of Hugh Town, forming a star-shaped fortress built to defend against Spanish invasion. Today, the coastal path atop these impressive walls offers the island’s most spectacular panoramic views. Historic cottages nestled within these fortifications provide million-dollar harbor views that photographers chase at sunrise and sunset.
The wildlife encounter that makes visitors return year after year
While St. Mary’s itself offers spectacular nature, it’s the boat trips to nearby waters that provide unforgettable wildlife encounters. Atlantic grey seals inhabit the waters between islands, and experienced local guides can take you to spots where these curious creatures approach swimmers and snorkelers. Dawn encounters with these wild seals create the kind of magical experience that becomes the highlight of any visit.
“The seals here have personalities as distinct as humans,” shares Dave Badcock, a local wildlife guide. “They’re naturally curious and will often swim right up to investigate visitors—it’s their ocean, and they’re just letting you borrow it for a while.”
Old Town: The forgotten settlement with a timeless beach
Just a 30-minute walk from Hugh Town lies Old Town, St. Mary’s original settlement. Its sheltered bay cradles a perfect crescent beach where dark sand contrasts dramatically with turquoise waters. The ancient churchyard here contains graves dating back centuries, including that of former British Prime Minister Harold Wilson, who loved these islands so much he chose to rest here eternally. Like certain rare beaches elsewhere, Old Town’s shore changes character dramatically with the tides.
How to experience St. Mary’s like a local insider
Visit Holy Vale Vineyard for wine tastings in a microclimate that produces surprisingly excellent vintages. Climb to the highest point at Telegraph Tower for breathtaking 360-degree island views. For authentic dining, skip tourist spots and head to Juliet’s Garden, where local seafood is served with panoramic vistas of the harbor. Most importantly, slow down—islanders operate on “Scilly time,” where rushing is considered poor form and conversations with strangers are expected, not avoided.
St. Mary’s isn’t simply a destination; it’s an immersion into a gentler pace and a reminder that paradise doesn’t require palm trees or passport stamps—sometimes it’s hiding just off your own country’s coastline, waiting to be rediscovered with each changing tide.