I cycled every inch of Hugh Town’s winding lanes on St. Mary’s Island, discovering hidden coastal treasures that most visitors never see. With just a rented bike and an adventurous spirit, I uncovered secret coves where turquoise waters kiss white sand beaches in blissful isolation from the world.
A cyclist’s paradise off Cornwall’s coast
St. Mary’s Island, the largest of the Isles of Scilly archipelago, sits 28 miles off Cornwall’s southwestern tip. Hugh Town, perched on a narrow isthmus, serves as the island’s charming hub with its pastel-colored cottages and harbor views that stretch across crystal-clear waters.
“Our roads were made for cycling, not cars,” laughs Martin, owner of St. Mary’s Bike Hire. “You’ll see more in a day on two wheels than most see in a week on foot.”
Traffic-free lanes reveal the island’s soul
What makes cycling here magical is the near absence of traffic. The island’s gentle slopes and well-maintained lanes create perfect conditions for riders of all abilities. I pedaled past the church and Old Town, following routes where cars are as rare as rainy days in July.
The freedom of exploration by bike reminded me of Greece’s sustainable paradises, where nature and simple pleasures trump modern distractions.
Watermill Cove: My first hidden treasure
Cycling northeast from Hugh Town, I followed a barely visible track ending at Watermill Cove. This secluded crescent of golden sand remains invisible until you’re nearly upon it. Protected by dramatic granite outcrops, the azure waters create natural swimming pools at low tide.
“Even many locals don’t visit this cove often,” confided Sarah, an island resident of 20 years. “It’s our special place when we want to escape everything.”
Bar Point: Where dolphins dance at dusk
Pedaling to the island’s northern tip, I discovered Bar Point, a windswept beach where expansive sand flats emerge at low tide. Here, I witnessed pods of dolphins playing offshore as the sun dipped toward the horizon, painting the sky in shades of pink and gold.
Pelistry Bay’s secret islet
The eastern coast revealed Pelistry Bay, where a tiny islet called Toll’s Island becomes accessible at low tide. I leaned my bike against ancient stone walls and walked across the temporary sand bridge, feeling like I’d discovered my own private kingdom.
This hidden gem reminded me of Europe’s authentic Mediterranean paradises – places of untouched beauty that somehow remain overlooked by mass tourism.
Old Town Bay’s historical echoes
Near the airport, Old Town Bay combines history with natural beauty. The ancient churchyard holds centuries of island stories, while the sheltered beach offers perfect swimming conditions. I picnicked here beside stone walls dating back generations, listening to the gentle lapping of waves.
Carn Vean: Tea with a view
When my legs needed rest, Carn Vean tearoom provided the perfect stop. Perched above stunning coastal views, their homemade scones rivaled any I’ve tried in England. Even better than many found in France’s hidden medieval villages.
The affordability factor
Despite its unique beauty, St. Mary’s remains refreshingly affordable. Bike rental costs just £10 daily, and camping options start around £15 per night, making it one of summer’s most affordable exotic destinations.
When to visit this island paradise
May and September offer perfect conditions – warm enough for swimming yet quiet enough to have beaches to yourself. The island’s mild climate makes it viable year-round, though winter ferry crossings can be sporadic.
Dark skies and stargazing
As night fell, I experienced the island’s renowned dark skies. With minimal light pollution, the Milky Way stretched overhead in breathtaking clarity. For stargazers, few places in England offer such celestial magnificence.
After just three days exploring St. Mary’s by bike, I understood why some visitors never leave, joining the ranks of expats who’ve discovered you can live comfortably while experiencing world-class adventures in this island paradise.