The forgotten paradise of Suðuroy sits at the southernmost edge of the Faroe Islands, where dramatic cliffs plunge into the wild North Atlantic. While tourists flock to Instagram hotspots elsewhere in this Danish archipelago, this island of just 4,600 souls remains deliciously authentic – a place where sheep outnumber people and locals still fish for their supper.
The island where time stands still
Arriving by ferry from Tórshavn (a scenic two-hour journey costing about $14), visitors immediately sense Suðuroy’s distinctive character. Unlike its northern siblings, this island maintains traditional ways without the growing tourism infrastructure. Here, modest wooden houses with grass roofs dot landscapes carved by ancient glaciers and constant wind.
Beinisvørð: The cliff that changed Faroese history
Standing 470 meters tall, the imposing Beinisvørð cliff isn’t just a spectacular photo opportunity – it’s a cultural touchstone. For centuries, local men risked their lives scaling these vertical walls to harvest seabird eggs, a dangerous practice that claimed many lives but sustained generations through harsh winters.
“These cliffs tell our story of survival,” explains Jóannes Patursson, a local historian. “The men who climbed them weren’t seeking adventure – they were keeping their families alive.”
The village that preserves ancient coal mining traditions
Hvalba, a quaint fishing village, holds a unique distinction as home to the Faroe Islands’ only historical coal mines. Dating back to the 1770s, these primitive mines once provided crucial fuel during World War II when the islands were cut off from mainland Europe. Today, locals occasionally still extract small amounts for personal use, maintaining a connection to their resourceful past.
Ásmundarstakkur: Nature’s cathedral
This towering sea stack resembles something from another world – a 30-meter natural pillar standing defiantly against crashing waves. The hike to this formation offers some of the archipelago’s most dramatic vistas, rivaling the turquoise wonders of Croatia’s hidden lake system but with a distinctly Nordic flavor.
Rituskor’s wooden bridge: Not for the faint-hearted
For adrenaline seekers, the wooden footbridge at Rituskor delivers heart-stopping thrills. Suspended above a dizzying drop to the ocean, this humble structure offers views that rival those from medieval villages like France’s car-free historical enclaves, but with raw, untamed nature replacing ancient architecture.
Fámjin: The birthplace of the Faroese flag
This tiny settlement of just 100 residents holds outsized importance in national identity. It was here in 1919 that the Merkið (the Faroese flag) was first raised, a powerful symbol of cultural identity. The original flag still hangs in the village’s whitewashed church, drawing patriotic Faroese from across the islands.
A culinary tradition born of necessity
Suðuroy’s isolation has preserved food traditions lost elsewhere. Unlike Caribbean culinary destinations, Faroese cuisine emerged from scarcity rather than abundance. Try ræst kjøt (fermented lamb) or the legendary Tvøroyri bakery’s pastries, considered the best in the islands.
“Our food isn’t fancy, but it tells the story of survival in a harsh place,” says Maria Thomsen, owner of a small café in Tvøroyri. “When we ferment fish or lamb, we’re using techniques our ancestors developed centuries ago.”
The festival that brings the island alive
Every July, Suðuroy transforms during Jóansøka, a midsummer festival combining sports competitions, traditional chain dancing, and community feasting. Unlike the commercialized cultural displays found in Bali’s temple complexes, these celebrations remain primarily for locals – though visitors are warmly welcomed.
Getting there: The final frontier of Faroese tourism
Reaching Suðuroy requires planning. The Smyril ferry operates 2-3 daily departures from Tórshavn, while adventurous travelers can book helicopter service (a surprisingly affordable government-subsidized option). Unlike Indonesian islands that ban motorized vehicles, cars are permitted – and useful for exploring the island’s scattered settlements.
On Suðuroy, you’ll discover the Faroe Islands before Instagram found them – where fishermen still nod to strangers, puffins outnumber tourists, and the rhythm of life moves to the ancient pulse of the North Atlantic. This is the edge of Europe, where tradition isn’t preserved for visitors but simply lives on, waiting for those willing to journey a little further.