The moment the ferry pulls away from Portland’s bustling waterfront, time seems to slow down. Just 17 minutes later, you’ll step onto Peaks Island—a car-free haven where the click of bicycle spokes and ocean waves provide the soundtrack to summer days. This 720-acre island might be Maine’s best-kept secret, offering a nostalgic escape that feels worlds away from mainland life.
A two-wheeled paradise where cars take a backseat
Peaks Island’s charm lies partly in what it lacks: traffic. While residents can bring vehicles over by ferry, visitors typically explore on foot or by renting bicycles from Brad’s Bike Rental near the ferry landing. The island’s 4-mile perimeter road offers stunning ocean vistas at every turn.
“We’ve always said that bicycles are the soul of the island,” explains Mary Thorp, a 30-year resident. “There’s something magical about circling the island on two wheels, the breeze in your hair, stopping whenever a view catches your eye.”
The world’s only umbrella cover museum (yes, really)
Among the island’s quirky attractions sits Nancy 3. Hoffman’s Umbrella Cover Museum—the planet’s only museum dedicated to those fabric sleeves that protect umbrellas. This one-room wonder houses over 2,000 covers from 70 countries and earned a Guinness World Record in 2015.
Battery Steele: Where history meets nature
Venture inland to discover Battery Steele, a massive abandoned WWII fortification slowly being reclaimed by nature. The concrete bunkers that once housed 16-inch guns now serve as impromptu art spaces and secret picnic spots with surprising acoustics.
The 90-acre preserve surrounding this military relic offers an unexpected woodland retreat where nature has reclaimed human history in spectacular fashion.
Lobster rolls with a side of sunset
No Maine island experience is complete without seafood. The Inn on Peaks Island serves what locals consider the area’s best lobster roll—sweet chunks of claw and knuckle meat lightly dressed and stuffed into a perfectly toasted bun.
For more casual fare, Island Lobster Company offers dockside dining where you can watch lobstermen unload their daily catch while enjoying yours. Their “Keeper” roll with brown butter rivals anything you’ll find on more touristy islands.
Lighthouse views that frame Portland’s skyline
Though Peaks Island doesn’t have its own lighthouse, it offers spectacular views of three nearby sentinels: Portland Head Light, Spring Point Ledge Light, and Bug Light. Each evening, photographers gather along the eastern shore to capture these beacons against the sunset-painted Portland skyline.
“There’s no better feeling than sitting on the rocks at Picnic Point during golden hour,” says photographer Jim Daniels. “When the lighthouses begin their evening flashes and Portland glows across the water, you understand why painters have been coming here for centuries.”
A surprising artist colony hidden in plain sight
The island houses dozens of working artists, with galleries tucked between cottages and along forest paths. The Richard Boyd Art Gallery showcases island-made pottery and paintings, while the Gem Gallery features rotating exhibitions by the Peaks Island Artists Association.
This creative energy rivals more famous art destinations but without the pretension—artists often invite visitors into their home studios for impromptu demonstrations.
Sandy beaches where tidal pools become natural aquariums
While Maine’s coast is famously rocky, Peaks Island boasts several sandy crescents perfect for swimming. At low tide, Centennial Beach reveals tidal pools teeming with sea stars, hermit crabs, and occasionally, the electric blue of a rare sea slug.
For families, these natural aquariums offer educational experiences that rival formal wildlife sanctuaries.
The 20-minute journey that takes you decades back in time
Perhaps Peaks Island’s greatest attraction is how it feels suspended in time—a place where children still sell lemonade from sidewalk stands and neighbors gather for evening picnics on public lawns.
As the ferry pulls away from Portland, you’re not just traveling three miles across Casco Bay; you’re journeying to a simpler time when islands served as natural boundaries between work and play.
After just one day of biking past Victorian cottages, feasting on lobster, and watching the sunset illuminate distant lighthouses, you might find yourself checking real estate listings. After all, the island’s year-round population of just 1,000 residents always has room for one more dreamer willing to embrace island time.