Highway 11 crosses black lava fields for 30 miles before Chain of Craters Road drops toward the coast. At mile marker 16.5, a small parking area marks the Puʻuloa Petroglyphs trailhead. Most visitors walk the short loop to see ancient rock carvings. The real destination lies 6.6 miles beyond, where turquoise pools hide behind jagged volcanic borders.
ʻĀpua Point sits at sea level on the Puna Coast. No road reaches it. The trail crosses 1971-1973 lava flows from Mauna Ulu, rough ʻaʻā that crunches and shifts underfoot. Cairns mark the route across trackless black rock. The hike takes 3-4 hours one way for experienced backpackers carrying 3 liters of water minimum.
The lava field crossing
The first 2 miles feel like walking on broken glass. Sharp ʻaʻā lava twists ankles and shreds soft-soled shoes. Mineral oxidation paints the 1970s flows in reds and browns. No shade exists. Black rock radiates heat that reaches 120°F on summer afternoons.
February temperatures stay milder at 75-80°F, but the sun still burns exposed skin. Sturdy hiking boots are mandatory. The trail gains only 130 feet in elevation, but the rough surface demands constant attention. One misstep on loose lava means a twisted ankle 6 miles from help.
Cairns appear every 100 yards, stacked stones guiding hikers across the flow. Without them, the route disappears into identical black terrain. Wind whips across the open lava field. The only sound is boots crunching volcanic glass and distant waves pounding cliffs.
Where tsunami history meets green refuge
The 1868 ghost village
ʻĀpua means “fish trap” in Hawaiian. Fishing villages once lined this coast, using stone corrals to catch reef fish. The Great Hawaiian Earthquake struck in April 1868, triggering a tsunami that destroyed coastal settlements. Stone ruins remain visible near the point, protected by law. Hikers must stay on marked trails.
Archaeological sites include ancient heiau and fishing structures. The National Park Service enforces strict rules. Touching or removing artifacts carries federal penalties. The ruins tell stories of communities that thrived here for centuries before the tsunami erased them in minutes.
The lava-spared oasis
Mauna Ulu erupted from May 1969 to July 1974, pouring 350 million cubic meters of lava toward the sea. Flows surrounded ʻĀpua Point on both sides but somehow missed the small peninsula. Today, sparse coconut palms and bright green naupaka grow where lava should have covered everything.
The contrast startles. Black desert suddenly gives way to living plants. A composting toilet sits on a low rise, offering panoramic views of the coastline. It is the only structure at ʻĀpua Point. The facility provides practical relief and the best overlook of surrounding cliffs and coves.
The blue cove experience
Pebble beach transition
Black lava pebbles form small protected coves where the point meets the ocean. Shallow pools 1-2 feet deep appear at low tide, bordered by lava barriers that block the open surf. Water glows turquoise through mineral-free clarity. February temperatures hover around 75°F, comfortable for soaking.
The beach is not sandy. Sharp rocks and pebbles cover the shoreline. Waves crash violently on exposed cliffs just yards away. The protected pools offer the only safe water access. Swimming in open ocean here is dangerous. Sea urchins hide in crevices. Sharks patrol deeper water beyond the lava barriers.
Turtle monitoring and wild encounters
A small shed near the cove houses hawksbill turtle recovery equipment. NOAA monitors nesting activity from May through September. Sea turtles sometimes bask on black pebbles in morning sun. Federal law requires 50 yards distance from all marine wildlife. No lifeguards patrol this coast. No services exist.
The isolation is absolute. On weekdays, hikers might see no one else all day. The National Park Service limits camping to 16 people per night at ʻĀpua Point. A backcountry permit costs $20 and requires advance registration. Most visitors day-hike and turn back before sunset.
The return hike timing
Morning starts are essential. Arriving at the trailhead by 7am allows hiking across lava fields before midday heat peaks. The exposed black rock becomes unbearable by noon in summer months. February offers slightly cooler conditions but still demands early departure.
Sunset from ʻĀpua Point paints cliffs in golden light. But hiking out after dark is treacherous. No lights illuminate the cairn trail. Headlamps barely help on trackless lava. Most backpackers camp overnight or leave the point by 3pm to reach the trailhead before dusk at 6:15pm.
Water is the critical factor. No refills exist anywhere on the 13.2-mile round trip. Dehydration happens fast in exposed heat. Park rangers recommend 3 liters minimum for day hikers, more for overnight camping. Every ounce must be carried in and every piece of trash carried out.
Your questions about ʻĀpua Point answered
Is ʻĀpua Point safe for families?
No. The trail crosses 6.6 miles of rough lava with no shade, no water, and no emergency services. Sharp ʻaʻā twists ankles. Heat exhaustion is common. Dangerous surf and sharp rocks make the coast hazardous. Only experienced adult hikers with strong fitness should attempt this trail.
How does it compare to Captain Cook Monument Trail?
Captain Cook Monument Trail on the Kona coast runs 3.6 miles round trip and attracts snorkelers and kayak tour groups. ʻĀpua Point is twice the distance, sees under 20 visitors per day, and has no snorkel infrastructure. Similar to other remote Big Island beaches, it trades crowds for solitude and requires genuine effort.
Can you access ʻĀpua Point without hiking?
No. No road reaches the point. Dangerous cliffs block coastal boat access. The only route is the 6.6-mile trail from Puʻuloa trailhead on Chain of Craters Road, mile marker 16.5. Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park charges $30 per vehicle for 7-day entry. Unlike easier Kauai beaches, this requires backcountry skills.
The composting toilet overlook catches afternoon light on black cliffs and blue water. Sparse palms sway in constant wind. Most hikers sit here for 20 minutes before starting the long walk back across lava fields to pavement.