The hike from Water Wheel parking starts easy along East Verde River, then turns into boulder field navigation. Twenty minutes in, the first cascade appears through ponderosa pines. Turquoise water pours over polished red granite. This is Ellison Creek in Tonto National Forest, where 50-60°F water defies Arizona’s desert reputation 100 miles north of Phoenix.
Where desert meets alpine water
The trailhead sits at 5,200 feet in Mogollon Rim Country. Elevation creates a micro-climate anomaly. Creek water stays 50-60°F year-round from snowmelt percolation through granite aquifer.
Red granite gorges formed through volcanic activity and water erosion over 1.6 billion years. Phoenix hits 90°F on February afternoons. The water here stays bracingly cold regardless of season.
Access requires Houston Mesa Road off AZ-87, 10 miles north of Payson. An $8 Tonto Pass covers parking at the 40-space lot. Arrive before 9am on weekends. The lot fills fast even in winter. High-clearance vehicles help on the final gravel stretch but aren’t required.
The cascade and swimming holes
Polished granite amphitheater
The main waterfall drops 80-90 feet in gradual cascades over slick granite slabs. Water collects in a pool 10-15 feet deep, surrounded by cliff walls. The emerald color comes from mineral content filtered through porous volcanic rock.
A flood-lodged tree trunk sits in the main pool. Visitors carved steps into it over years. It works as a natural slide and jumping platform. The wood stays slippery from constant water flow.
The boulder-hop reality
No official maintained trail exists. Heavy foot traffic creates a worn route over granite and through talus fields. The 1.5-mile round trip involves stream crossings and boulder hopping. Water shoes grip better than hiking boots on wet rock.
Moderate difficulty means balance and agility matter more than fitness. Winter reduces flash flood risks compared to July-August monsoons. But 50°F water stays brutally cold regardless of air temperature. For comparison, this alpine lake near Seattle offers similar glacial-water color in a different mountain setting.
Swimming hole culture
The deep pool experience
Cliff edges around the main pool allow 5-10 foot jumps. Check depth before jumping. The carved log offers a slippery entry point. Side pools fill with tadpoles and crawfish in shallows.
Water clarity lets you see the bottom at 15 feet. Cold shock hits immediately in 50°F water, even when air temps reach 90°F. Local families bring floats. Dogs swim off-leash but owners keep them controlled.
Winter versus summer reality
February 2026 brings 20-30 visitors max on weekends. Air temps hover around 55°F. TikTok ice dip challenges trend among winter swimmers. Summer peaks see 200 plus people on hot weekends. Parking becomes chaotic. College crowds dominate.
Fishing works year-round in East Verde sections for trout, bass, and sunfish. Day-use only rules took effect in 2025. Rangers enforce pack-in pack-out strictly. Similar red rock water experiences exist at this Kauai reef with swim-through formations, though in warmer Pacific water.
Practical stillness
Distance from Phoenix measures 100 miles via AZ-87 north through Payson. Drive time runs 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic. No cell service exists past the trailhead. Download offline GPS coordinates (34.347°N, 111.202°W) before leaving town.
Pack-in pack-out rules carry ranger enforcement and fines. High-clearance vehicles help on the final dirt stretch but aren’t mandatory. Winter morning golden hour hits the granite around 7am. Mist rises from icy pools. Trails stay empty. First light catches red rock. This is rare Arizona where water, not heat, defines the landscape. Budget-conscious travelers find similar value at these Smokies experiences under $50.
Your questions about Ellison Creek answered
Is the water safe to swim year-round?
Yes, but 50-60°F temps demand caution. Winter swimmers risk hypothermia after 15-20 minutes of immersion. Summer makes cold water refreshing but initial shock stays intense. Water quality rates excellent with clear visibility and no algae. Monsoon rains from July through August bring flash flood danger and turbidity. Avoid the creek during thunderstorms.
How does this compare to Slide Rock State Park?
Similar natural waterslide concept and red rock setting exist at both locations. Ellison Creek costs only the $8 Tonto Pass versus $20-30 Slide Rock entry. Less crowded due to no paved access. Wilder experience overall. Slide Rock provides facilities and easier access. Ellison Creek offers zero amenities. Distance from Phoenix runs 1.5 hours versus 2 hours to Sedona. For another Arizona alternative, this mining town provides high desert exploration at 10,000 feet.
What makes the water so cold in Arizona desert?
Elevation at 5,200 feet combined with snowmelt percolation through granite aquifer keeps temps constant. Water originates from Mogollon Rim snowpack. It filters through porous volcanic rock over months. Shaded canyon orientation blocks direct sun. These factors maintain 50-60°F water regardless of surface air temperature. The creek defies typical desert hydrology.
The carved log catches afternoon light around 3pm in February. Water reflects red granite walls. Most visitors leave by then. The quiet returns to just cascade sounds and pine wind.
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