Vincent van Gogh once described Saint-Rémy-de-Provence as a place where “the air is pure as crystal.” Over 130 years later, this enchanting town nestled in the foothills of the Alpilles mountains remains one of southern France’s most captivating treasures, where the legendary artist created more than 150 paintings during his year-long stay at the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum.
Walking in Van Gogh’s footsteps
The Van Gogh trail offers a remarkable journey through the artist’s tumultuous yet productive period in Saint-Rémy. Large reproductions of his masterpieces stand at the exact locations that inspired them, creating an immersive experience that connects visitors directly to his vision. The Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery itself remains a functioning psychiatric facility, though parts are open to the public.
“The monastery’s progressive approach to mental health treatment gave Van Gogh the freedom to paint during his stay here,” explains local historian Marie Durand. “This environment of healing through creativity was revolutionary for its time.”
A 2,000-year-old Roman city beneath your feet
Just steps from town lies Glanum, an ancient Roman settlement dating back to the 3rd century BC. The remarkably preserved ruins include temples, bathhouses, and a stunning cenotaph from 20 BC. Unlike many archaeological sites, Glanum offers intimate access to history with minimal crowds, allowing visitors to wander freely among stone columns where Romans once gathered.
Early mornings provide the most magical experience here, with golden Mediterranean light casting dramatic shadows across ancient stonework. Like Iceland’s geological wonders, Glanum connects visitors to Earth’s ancient history in a tangible way.
Market day: a feast for all senses
Wednesday mornings transform Saint-Rémy into a vibrant tapestry of colors, aromas, and sounds during the weekly market. Stalls overflow with purple lavender, golden olive oils, and jewel-toned produce. Locals debate the merits of different cheese varieties while visitors sample charcuterie and fresh-baked bread.
“Our market has been happening in these same streets for centuries,” says olive vendor Jean-Pierre Moreau. “We’re not putting on a show for tourists—this is our authentic way of life.”
The Alpilles: nature’s dramatic backdrop
The rugged limestone peaks surrounding Saint-Rémy create a microclimate perfect for producing exceptional olive oil and wine. Hiking trails crisscross the mountains, offering panoramic views reminiscent of Croatia’s dramatic coastal landscapes. For photography enthusiasts, the stark white rock against deep blue skies creates images worthy of Van Gogh’s canvas.
A culinary journey through Provence
Saint-Rémy’s restaurant scene punches well above its weight for a town of its size. Bistros serve traditional Provençal dishes like ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and daube (beef stew) alongside innovative cuisine that draws on the region’s abundant produce. The town’s culinary workshops offer immersive experiences in French cooking techniques.
For those fascinated by unique food cultures, this experience rivals even the Bahamas’ swimming pigs in creating memorable travel moments.
Secret corners for contemplation
Beyond the main attractions lie quieter pleasures. The ancient fountains dotting the town provide tranquil spots to escape summer heat. Narrow streets wind past centuries-old homes with hidden gardens glimpsed through iron gates. These peaceful nooks reveal Saint-Rémy’s soul away from the visitor paths.
Like Greece’s colorful island beaches, these intimate spaces offer visitors moments of unexpected beauty and serenity.
When to experience Saint-Rémy at its finest
May and September offer ideal conditions—warm days, cool evenings, and fewer crowds than summer months. The Wednesday market operates year-round, though arriving before 9am ensures better parking options. For those seeking deeper cultural immersion, consider underground wonders like Turkey’s subterranean city as another stop on your European journey.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence doesn’t just preserve its past—it lives it daily through markets, cuisine, and artistic traditions. Here, Van Gogh’s vibrant brushstrokes still echo through golden wheat fields, while Roman ghosts whisper among ancient stones. It’s a place where history feels not like a museum exhibit but a living presence, inviting travelers to become part of its ongoing story.