The first time I stumbled upon Les Deux Alpes in summer, I expected a ghost town. Instead, I found a vibrant alpine playground reborn beyond its winter identity. Standing atop the glacier at 3,200 meters, wildflowers replacing snow in the valleys below, I realized I’d discovered France’s best-kept warm-weather secret – a destination that transforms completely when the ski lifts shift their purpose from powder hounds to summer adventurers.
Where winter’s playground becomes summer’s hidden paradise
Les Deux Alpes sits in France’s Isère department, tucked into the Écrins National Park’s dramatic embrace. While winter brings over 20,000 skiers to its slopes, summer sees just a fraction of visitors – creating the perfect uncrowded escape. The resort merges two former farming villages, Mont-de-Lans and Venosc, connected by what locals call the “white ribbon” – a sprawling ski area that, come summer, transforms into a network of hiking trails and mountain bike routes threading through meadows erupting with alpine wildflowers.
“We have two completely different identities,” explained Jean-Marc, a mountain guide who’s lived here for twenty years. “In winter, we’re a ski resort. In summer, we’re a gateway to the true Alps – wilder, more authentic, and with space to breathe.”
Three remarkable experiences beyond the winter crowds
Skiing in July on Europe’s largest summer glacier
The gondola climbed silently through morning mist, depositing me at 3,400 meters where skiers carved fresh tracks while surrounded by green valleys. The glacier at Les Deux Alpes offers the largest summer skiing area in Europe, with eight runs open from 7am until noon, when the snow softens under the summer sun.
I watched as Olympic hopefuls trained alongside families experiencing the novelty of skiing in shorts and t-shirts. The juxtaposition was surreal – below us, mountain bikers kicked up dust on sun-baked trails while we glided across snow that had survived since winter.
The hidden valley of wildflowers at Plateau d’Emparis
A 45-minute drive from Les Deux Alpes lies the Plateau d’Emparis, where a sea of gentian, edelweiss and alpine roses creates nature’s most spectacular carpet. The five-hour loop hike from the village of Besse rewards with unobstructed views of La Meije’s imposing north face reflected in crystal-clear alpine lakes.
I shared the trail with only a handful of French hikers and several curious marmots. At Refuge du Fay, a stone hut perched on the plateau, I stopped for homemade blueberry tart while the shepherd explained how these meadows have been summer grazing grounds for centuries.
Tasting alpine tradition at the forgotten fromagerie
In the tiny hamlet of Bons, accessible only by a narrow road from Les Deux Alpes, the Ferme des Bisons appears unchanged since the 1800s. Here, Mathilde Jacquemet continues five generations of cheese-making tradition, producing tomme de montagne with rich, grassy notes imparted by the unique alpine herbs her cows graze on during summer months.
The aging room – a cool stone cellar beneath centuries-old wooden beams – houses just fifty wheels of cheese at a time. Mathilde offers tastings accompanied by local génépi liqueur distilled from alpine flowers gathered by hand each August.
Planning your perfect summer alpine escape
When to visit for optimal experiences
Target late June through early September for the perfect balance of accessibility and solitude. Mid-July brings wildflowers at their peak, while August offers the warmest temperatures for hiking higher elevations. Glacier skiing typically runs from mid-June through August, depending on conditions.
Where to base yourself
Skip the purpose-built resort accommodations and opt instead for the charming stone houses of Venosc village, connected to Les Deux Alpes by a scenic seven-minute gondola ride. Chalet L’Ancolie offers authentic alpine apartments with modern amenities at half the price of slope-side equivalents.
Beyond the expected in Alpine France
As I departed Les Deux Alpes, traversing a mountain pass where an alpine lake nestled at 2,414 meters hides a chapel where wishes survive centuries, I understood why summer visitors return year after year. Like those medieval French villages of just 350 residents that have remained unchanged since 1306, Les Deux Alpes preserves something increasingly rare – an authentic alpine experience where nature, not commercialization, dictates the rhythm of life. For those willing to look beyond winter’s reputation, these mountains reveal their true character when the snow retreats and hidden waterfalls cascade into medieval time capsules that locals protect like treasured secrets.