The parking lot at Friar’s Bay buzzes with day-trippers unloading beach chairs and coolers. Most never notice the unmarked dirt path leading north through the brush. This 10-minute hike through abandoned hurricane ruins leads to St. Martin’s clearest turquoise cove, where only 20-50 visitors discover Happy Bay’s crystal waters each day.
The trail rewards those willing to leave the crowds behind. Hurricane Irma’s 177mph winds left roofless concrete shells scattered across the hillside in 2017, now home to curious iguanas basking in the Caribbean sun.
The trail through time
The dirt path starts at Friar’s Bay’s northern end, marked only by worn footprints and local knowledge. Rocky terrain requires steady footing, though flip-flops work for most hikers. Elevation gain stays minimal across the 0.4-mile route.
Abandoned structures appear through the vegetation after 5 minutes. Pre-Irma resort buildings stand as concrete skeletons, their missing roofs creating frames for tropical sky. Curly-tailed iguanas lounge on debris, unbothered by occasional hikers passing through their reclaimed territory.
The sound of waves grows stronger as the path curves toward the coast. Coconut palms and sea grape trees provide intermittent shade. A fence blocks direct road access to preserve the ruins’ eerie quiet.
When the cove reveals itself
The first glimpse
Happy Bay appears suddenly through the final stand of trees. Crystal turquoise water stretches 400 yards between protective mountain walls. The sheltered position creates mirror-calm conditions impossible at exposed beaches like Orient Bay.
Powdery white sand contrasts sharply with water so clear that visibility reaches 30-50 feet underwater. Rocky outcrops frame both ends of the narrow beach, creating natural snorkeling zones where sergeant majors and parrotfish gather in colorful schools.
What makes it crystal clear
Geography explains Happy Bay’s exceptional water clarity. The cove’s protected position between mountains shields it from Atlantic swells that stir up sediment at open beaches. Steady currents flush the bay clean while the white sand and rock bottom reflect sunlight upward.
Water temperatures hold steady at 78-82°F from December through April, perfect for extended swimming sessions. The shallow entry drops gradually, allowing comfortable wading 50 yards from shore before reaching waist-deep water.
The Happy Bay experience
Swimming and snorkeling
Morning visits offer glassy calm conditions and near-empty beaches. The trail deters casual day-trippers, keeping daily visitor counts between 20-50 people compared to Orient Bay’s 500-plus crowds. Peak hours run 11am-3pm when tour groups occasionally arrive.
Snorkeling conditions excel from December through April when mild currents and 30-50 foot visibility make the rocky ends ideal for beginners. Schools of tropical fish inhabit sparse coral formations along the bay’s perimeter.
The unofficial rules
French Caribbean naturism traditions make clothing-optional behavior accepted, especially on weekdays and at the beach’s far end. Respectful discretion guides the relaxed atmosphere. Families and textile bathers coexist peacefully.
Leave no trace ethics protect the bay’s pristine condition. No facilities exist by design. The 10-minute access barrier naturally selects visitors who appreciate unspoiled nature over commercial beach club amenities.
The quiet that follows
Grand Case’s French-Caribbean restaurants lie just 1 mile away, but Happy Bay feels removed from civilization. Evening light filters golden through the mountain frame as afternoon breezes subside. Only gentle wave lapping and occasional iguana rustles disturb the peace.
This contrast defines the experience. Maho Beach’s jet engine roars at Princess Juliana Airport seem impossible here, though the drive takes only 25 minutes through French-side back roads. Authenticity survives because effort preserves it.
Sunset transforms the protected cove into a natural amphitheater. Mountain silhouettes frame the sky while turquoise water reflects pink and orange hues. Most visitors float quietly, reluctant to break the spell with conversation.
Your questions about Happy Bay answered
How difficult is the hike?
The 10-15 minute trail rates easy for most fitness levels. Rocky terrain and minor elevation changes require basic stability, but families with agile children manage fine. Sturdy sandals or hiking shoes prevent slips on loose gravel and curb-jumping sections near the ruins.
Best time to visit?
December through April offers ideal conditions with 78-82°F water temperatures and minimal rainfall under 2 inches monthly. Morning arrival before 10am guarantees near-empty beaches and glassy calm water. Hurricane season May-November brings higher humidity and afternoon thunderstorms.
How does it compare to Orient Bay?
Happy Bay delivers the opposite experience from Orient Bay’s developed beach scene. No facilities, watersports, or beach bars exist here. Daily visitor counts of 20-50 people contrast sharply with Orient Bay’s 500-plus crowds. Access requires hiking effort rather than direct parking, naturally filtering for visitors seeking quiet over convenience.
The late afternoon sun casts long shadows across Happy Bay’s white sand as day-trippers begin their return hike. Turquoise water holds its perfect clarity until darkness falls, promising the same crystal beauty when tomorrow’s early visitors arrive to discover their own private paradise.