I spent €15 to camp on a hidden Greek beach accessible only by foot, and it transformed my understanding of travel luxury. Vlychada Beach on the tiny island of Anafi offered something no five-star resort could – absolute freedom in nature’s embrace, with nothing but stars above and waves below.
A remote paradise that demands dedication
Reaching Vlychada isn’t easy, which is precisely its charm. After taking a ferry to Anafi (a Cycladic island often overlooked for its famous neighbor Santorini), I hiked for nearly two hours along rugged paths that wound through thyme-scented hills. The journey itself became a meditation, each step distancing me further from the crowded beaches that dominate Greek tourism.
Where €15 buys infinite serenity
My entire accommodation budget covered just the basics – a lightweight tent and sleeping bag carried in my backpack. This minimal investment yielded immeasurable returns. Unlike certain European islands where time moves differently, on Vlychada, time seemed to stop entirely. The rhythmic waves became my only timekeeper.
The beach that tourism forgot
Vlychada’s golden crescent of sand stretches for nearly half a mile, framed by dramatic limestone cliffs rising sharply from turquoise waters. What struck me most was the absence – no beach bars, no rental umbrellas, no hawkers selling trinkets. Just pristine nature unchanged for centuries.
“We prefer to keep Anafi’s hidden beaches natural. This island is for travelers who seek silence, not services,” explained Dimitris, a local shepherd I met on my hike back to town.
Dining under a billion stars
As sunset approached, I prepared a simple meal on my portable stove – local cheese, tomatoes, and bread purchased in Chora, Anafi’s only village. The fading light painted the cliffs in warm amber hues reminiscent of Spain’s ancient palaces at sunset, creating a natural amphitheater for the greatest show on earth.
A sacred morning ritual
Dawn on Vlychada arrives with ethereal beauty. I woke to find myself alone with the rising sun, its first rays illuminating the bay with golden light. My morning swim in crystal waters felt like baptism – a full immersion in nature that left me renewed. Unlike Balinese temples guarded by macaques, this sanctuary was protected simply by its remoteness.
The unexpected community of solitude-seekers
I wasn’t entirely alone. By midday, I noticed three other tents spaced respectfully along the beach. We acknowledged each other with nods but maintained our respective bubbles of solitude. There’s an unspoken code among wild campers here – respect the silence, leave no trace, protect what makes this place special.
“We come to Vlychada to remember what’s essential in life,” said Maria, a Greek musician who visits annually. “The simplicity heals something modern life breaks.”
Practical considerations for the unprepared
Camping on Vlychada requires preparation. There’s no fresh water source, no facilities, and no shade except what your equipment provides. I carried three liters of water for each day, sun protection, and garbage bags to pack out everything I brought in. This isn’t a beach for the comfort-dependent.
An endangered experience?
Greece recently tightened regulations on wild camping, making experiences like mine technically in a gray area. However, on remote islands like Anafi, enforcement remains minimal, and responsible camping is still tolerated. Unlike medieval French villages where ancient rules prevail, these beaches exist in a delicate balance between accessibility and preservation.
The luxury of nothing
My night on Vlychada offered a profound lesson in luxury redefined. True wealth isn’t counted in thread counts or amenity lists but in uninterrupted natural beauty and freedom from constant connectivity. As stars emerged in numbers impossible to comprehend from light-polluted cities, I understood why people have sought this experience for generations.
Walking away from Vlychada the next day, I felt like I was carrying a secret. Just a short journey from the tourist highways of Greece lies this perfect stretch of freedom, available to anyone willing to walk the path less traveled. Unlike Croatia’s famous interconnected lakes, Vlychada’s beauty lies in its magnificent isolation – just you, the stars, and the sea.