Under a billion stars, I showered in the open air, the warm water cascading over my shoulders as the Milky Way stretched across the inky Outback sky. This wasn’t some travel fantasy—it was my reality at Karijini National Park, Western Australia’s red-rock wilderness where luxury safari tents bring glamping to new heights.
A tent that redefines wilderness luxury
The Karijini Eco Retreat’s safari tents strike that perfect balance between rugged adventure and creature comforts. My deluxe eco tent featured a king-sized bed draped in crisp linens, solar-powered lighting, and the piece de resistance—a private ensuite bathroom with an outdoor shower section where ceiling cutaways reveal the star-studded sky.
“Our guests often tell us the outdoor shower experience becomes their favorite memory,” explains Sam, the retreat manager. “There’s something transformative about being so exposed to nature yet completely private at the same time.”
Two billion years in the making
Karijini isn’t just any national park—it’s a geological masterpiece sculpted over two billion years. The ancient landscape features spectacular red gorges carved through layers of iron-rich rock, creating a maze of chasms and waterways unlike anywhere else in Australia.
While most visitors make the 1,500 km journey north from Perth focused on hiking these gorges, I discovered the perfect compromise: challenging day hikes followed by evenings of unexpected luxury.
Plunging into nature’s infinity pools
By day, I navigated the park’s network of trails leading to crystal-clear waterholes—natural swimming spots where emerald waters provide shocking contrast against the rich red rock. At Fern Pool, I floated beneath a small waterfall, watching swallows dart between overhanging ferns.
For the adventurous, Hancock Gorge offers the famous “Spider Walk,” where visitors navigate an increasingly narrow chasm by splaying arms and legs against the walls, spider-style, before reaching the reward of Kermit’s Pool—a serene jade-colored swimming hole.
“These gorges tell our creation stories,” shares Indigenous guide Marie. “When you swim in these waters, you’re connecting with something that has spiritual significance going back countless generations.”
The 5-star Outback dining experience
Perhaps the biggest surprise was the quality of dining at the retreat’s restaurant. Overlooking the spinifex-dotted landscape, I feasted on kangaroo fillet with native herbs and locally-sourced barramundi. The open-air restaurant, with its corrugated iron roof and rustic wooden tables, perfectly complements the natural setting.
Those seeking similar outdoor luxury experiences might enjoy desert domes with climate control or transparent mountain retreats at altitude.
The magic hour in red rock country
As the day waned, I joined other guests at Joffre Gorge lookout. The setting sun transformed the landscape, intensifying the red hues of the gorge while casting dramatic shadows. This “magic hour” revealed why photographers consider Karijini a bucket-list destination.
The colors rivaled those found at Peru’s ancient mountain citadels, though with a distinctly Australian character.
Nights beneath the southern stars
Back at camp, darkness brought another dimension to the experience. With minimal light pollution, the night sky erupted in a dazzling display that city dwellers rarely experience. The Southern Cross hung above my tent, while shooting stars streaked across the heavens.
Like sleeping above the clouds in Portugal’s ancient forests, this celestial show makes you feel simultaneously insignificant and deeply connected to the universe.
An unexpected Aboriginal connection
What many visitors don’t realize is that Karijini Eco Retreat is 100% Aboriginal-owned by Gumala Enterprises. Your stay directly supports the Traditional Owners of this ancient land, creating a meaningful dimension to an already extraordinary experience.
“This is our way of sharing country while protecting it,” explains elder Robert Boona. “When visitors leave with a deeper understanding of this place, that’s true reconciliation.”
Beyond the beaten path
While gorges like Dales, Weano and Knox draw crowds, I discovered solitude at Hamersley Gorge’s “spa pool” – a natural infinity-edge swimming hole that rivals the hidden coastal treasures of Wales’s medieval island.
As I packed to leave, a final outdoor shower beneath the morning sun served as the perfect bookend to my stay. In Karijini, I discovered that true luxury isn’t about opulence—it’s about experiencing extraordinary natural wonders without sacrificing comfort. In the heart of Australia’s harshest landscape, I found its most sublime comfort.