Kealakekua Bay charges $165 for boat tours or requires $75 kayak rentals for 4-mile paddles to reach the same turtles swimming at Two Step’s lava steps. Parking costs $0 and your arms stay fresh for snorkeling. The reef quality matches. The crowds don’t.
Honaunau Bay sits 10 miles south of Kailua-Kona, adjacent to Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. The county manages free boat ramp parking at the bay entrance. Arrive before 8am or circle for 20 minutes waiting for a spot. The lava entry point sits 100 feet from the parking area.
Two natural platforms descend into turquoise water. Locals call them the two steps. The first platform sits 2 feet above water level. The second drops 3 feet deeper. Strong swimmers enter here. Beginners should choose sandy beaches elsewhere.
Why Kealakekua Bay makes you work
Kealakekua Bay requires permits for all vessels including kayaks and paddleboards. Three commercial operators hold landing permits near the Captain Cook Monument. They limit groups to 12 kayaks each. That’s 36 kayaks total allowed to land daily.
The bay recorded 250-400 daily visitors in 2019. By 2022, authorities issued 758 vessel permits. Kayak rental shops in Kona charge $75-125 per person for equipment. The paddle spans 4 miles one way. Most paddlers take 90 minutes each direction.
Boat tours simplify access but cost $165 per person for 4.5-hour trips. Tours include snorkel gear and lunch. You spend 60-90 minutes in the water. The rest is travel time. Similar to this 3-mile Hawaiian beach that stays empty while Waikiki packs 11,000 tourists daily, the access barriers at Kealakekua filter crowds but create frustration.
Meet Two Step at Honaunau Bay
The lava platform entry requires calm ocean conditions. Winter months from December through February offer the most consistent access. Northwest swells affect north shores but leave south Kona protected. Wave heights stay under 3 feet most mornings.
The lava entry advantage
Black volcanic rock forms natural stairs into deep water. The first step provides a stable platform for gear adjustment. The second step drops swimmers directly into 15 feet of water. No sandy beach entry means immediate access to reef habitat.
Water temperature stays between 76-78°F in winter and reaches 79-81°F in summer. The cove layout blocks afternoon winds. Morning snorkeling from 7-10am offers the clearest visibility before breezes pick up.
Same reef without the paddle
Green turtles graze on algae covering the lava formations. They surface every 5-7 minutes to breathe. Swimmers maintain 10-foot distances as required by federal law. The turtles ignore humans when left undisturbed.
Reef fish populations match Kealakekua’s diversity. Yellow tangs school in groups of 30-40 individuals. Parrotfish scrape algae from coral surfaces. Triggerfish patrol territorial boundaries. White-tip reef sharks rest in caves during daylight hours.
The reef extends 200 yards offshore before dropping to deeper water. Coral coverage reaches 40-60% in healthy sections. Visibility ranges from 60-100 feet on calm mornings. Much like 5 islands where coral walls start 50 feet from the beach, Two Step delivers immediate underwater access.
The snorkel experience
Entry timing matters. High tide covers the lower step completely. Low tide exposes sharp lava edges. Mid-tide provides the safest entry window. Ocean conditions change within hours. Check surf forecasts before driving south from Kona.
What you’ll see underwater
Turtles graze at depths of 10-15 feet throughout the bay. Spinner dolphins visit the cove occasionally during morning hours. Manta rays glide through deeper channels beyond the reef edge. Eagle rays patrol sandy patches between coral formations.
The underwater lava creates swim-through channels and archways. Brain coral colonies grow 3-4 feet in diameter. Finger coral branches shelter juvenile fish. Urchins cluster in crevices. Octopuses hide in holes marked by shell debris.
Best conditions for snorkeling
Year-round access works when ocean conditions cooperate. Winter offers calmer seas but occasional northwest swells close the entry. Summer brings consistent calm but afternoon winds reduce visibility. Spring and fall provide the most reliable windows.
Morning light angles improve underwater photography from 8-10am. Afternoon sun creates surface glare that reduces visibility. Cloudy days offer even lighting but less dramatic colors. The bay faces west, so sunrise happens behind the cliffs.
Practical details for your visit
The county boat ramp parking lot holds approximately 20 vehicles. Overflow parking along the access road fills quickly after 8am on weekends. The adjacent National Historical Park charges $30 per vehicle for 7-day entry. Park access isn’t required to reach Two Step.
Snorkel gear rentals in Kailua-Kona cost $15-25 per day. Shops open at 7am. The 25-mile drive south takes 45 minutes via Highway 11 and Highway 160. No food vendors operate at the bay. Pack water and snacks. The nearest restaurants sit 3 miles north in Captain Cook village.
Cell service works reliably at the parking area. The nearest hospital operates in Kealakekua, 12 miles north. Ocean Safety officers patrol south Kona beaches but don’t station permanently at Two Step. Swimmers accept responsibility for their own safety.
For those exploring other Big Island options, Kiholo keeps black sand empty for $30 while tour buses crowd Punalu’u. The island rewards visitors who venture beyond the obvious stops.
Your questions about Honaunau Bay answered
When should I avoid Two Step?
Skip days when surf forecasts predict south swells above 4 feet. Winter storms occasionally send wrap-around swells into the bay. The lava entry becomes dangerous when waves surge over the platforms. Check ocean conditions at the parking lot before committing to entry. If you see whitewater breaking over the steps, choose another day.
How does this compare to other Kona snorkel spots?
Two Step offers shore access to reef quality that typically requires boat trips. Kealakekua Bay provides similar underwater scenery but demands kayaking skills or tour boat fees. Kahalu’u Beach Park offers easier entry for beginners but faces higher crowds and degraded reef sections. Two Step balances accessibility with preservation through its experienced-swimmer requirement.
What makes the lava entry unique?
The two-platform system creates natural staging areas that sandy beaches lack. Swimmers adjust masks and fins on the upper step. The lower step provides a push-off point into deep water. This eliminates the coral-damaging shuffle through shallow reef that occurs at beach entries. The lava also stays cooler than sun-heated sand, providing comfortable surfaces for gear preparation.
Morning light turns the water electric blue against black lava. Turtles surface between the platforms, close enough to hear them breathe. The reef continues its quiet work below. This is why residents protect this place. The bay gives without asking much back. Just respect for the ocean and the skills to meet it on its terms.