The steam rises at 6am, curling through fresh powder that fell overnight. Two turquoise pools sit in a forest clearing at 7,150 feet, ringed by pines heavy with snow. Polaris, Montana holds maybe 50 residents. The hot springs here operate Thursday through Sunday, 8am to 10pm. Cell service disappears 10 miles back.
This is not a resort. The pools are mineral-rich but sulfur-free. No rotten egg smell. Just clean mountain water heated deep in the Pioneer Mountains, surfacing at temperatures warm enough for January soaking while snowflakes land on your shoulders.
The Pioneer Mountains setting
Elkhorn Hot Springs sits within Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest, 42 miles northwest of Dillon on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway. The drive from Salt Lake City takes 4.5 hours. Bozeman sits 4 hours north. Winter roads stay maintained but snow tires help. The byway climbs through old mining country where ghost towns mark ridge lines.
Polaris itself barely registers as a town. A few cabins, the hot springs lodge, access to 100-plus miles of snowmobile trails threading through the forest. Maverick Mountain ski area sits 2 miles away, a small local hill that averages 180 inches of snow annually. The elevation here keeps winter deep and quiet.
The Forest Service lease means this place stays rustic. No satellite TV in cabins. No cell towers. Just wood stoves, continental breakfast included with lodging, and the sound of wind through evergreens at night.
The sulfur-free revelation
Why these pools feel different
Most geothermal springs carry that distinctive sulfur smell. Yellowstone’s pools reek of it. Elkhorn’s mineral water surfaces odorless. You can soak for hours without that rotten egg scent clinging to your skin and swimsuit.
Two outdoor pools operate year-round. The larger one handles families. Kids splash while parents float. The smaller pool stays quieter. A Grecian sauna sits nearby. Pool bottoms can be slick, so water shoes help. Day use costs $5 for the main pool. Cabins run $100-250 per night depending on rustic versus modern options.
Winter visual magic
Morning mist hangs low when cold air meets hot water. The contrast creates layers of steam that drift through the pines. Deer graze near the pool edges, unbothered by soakers. Snow accumulates on pool decks overnight. You brush it off the benches before settling in.
Golden hour light filters through the forest around 4pm in January. The snow turns pink, then purple. Stars appear early this far from city lights. The Milky Way stretches clear across the sky by 7pm.
The unplugged experience
What you actually do here
Cross-country ski trails stretch 12 kilometers from the lodge, groomed occasionally. The full 23-kilometer route follows the old Wise River Polaris Road to Price Creek Divide, climbing 1,000 feet. Most skiers turn back at the halfway point. The trails wind through mining history, passing old claims and collapsed structures.
Sledding happens on the cabin access road. No official hill, just kids and adults racing down the snowy path at speeds that feel reckless. Free entertainment. Snowshoe rentals are available at Maverick Mountain. The forest opens up into meadows where you can make your own tracks.
Soaking fits between activities. Morning ski, midday soak, afternoon snowshoe, evening soak. The mineral water leaves you buzzed out, that loose-limbed relaxation that makes sleep come easy. Similar to Pagosa Springs’ geothermal pools but without the resort crowds.
Rustic Montana authenticity
The lodge restaurant serves burgers, pasta, occasional game meat. Nothing fancy. Continental breakfast means coffee, pastries, fruit. Dinner runs $15-25 per person. One reviewer called it overpriced, but you’re 40 miles from the nearest grocery store in Dillon.
Cabins blend into the forest. Wood stoves heat the rustic ones. Modern cabins add insulation and better bedding. No boutique touches. This feels more like a 1920s Forest Service camp than a 2026 wellness retreat. Campfires happen most evenings when weather allows. Marshmallows roast. Families unplug completely.
Winter solitude at 7,150 feet
Weekends book up, especially around holidays. Weekdays stay empty. The pools might hold three people on a Tuesday morning. Compare that to Star Valley’s busier hot springs scene or Yellowstone’s packed thermal features.
The 100-plus miles of snowmobile trails keep most winter visitors dispersed. You hear machines in the distance but rarely see them near the pools. The forest absorbs sound. Even on busy weekends, the quiet returns by 9pm.
Night sky viewing rivals anywhere in Montana. Zero light pollution. The cold air stays clear. Orion hangs directly overhead in January. You can soak and stargaze simultaneously, warm water below, frozen air above.
Your questions about Elkhorn Hot Springs answered
When should you visit?
December through March offers the full snow-ringed experience. January brings the deepest powder, typically 180-200 inches at this elevation. Spring arrives late, with wildflowers peaking in June. Summer opens hiking trails to old mining sites. The pools operate year-round, Thursday through Sunday, 8am-10pm. Call ahead to confirm winter hours: 406-834-3551.
What does it really cost?
Day use runs $5 for pool access. Rustic cabins start around $100 per night. Modern cabins reach $250, including continental breakfast. Meals at the lodge cost $15-25. Gas up in Dillon before the final 40-mile drive. Budget $50-80 daily for a couple staying in a basic cabin with meals. That’s 40% less than Silverton’s winter lodging rates.
How does it compare to Colorado springs?
Elkhorn stays smaller and less polished than Glenwood or Pagosa Springs. No resort amenities. No spa services. Just pools, cabins, and forest. Crowds run one-tenth of what you’ll find at major Colorado hot springs. Prices sit 30-40% lower. The trade-off is remoteness and limited services. If you want authentic winter isolation, Elkhorn delivers.
The drive back to Dillon takes an hour. Most visitors leave by Sunday afternoon. The pools empty again. Steam continues rising through the pines. Deer return to graze. The forest reclaims its silence until the next weekend brings a handful of soakers seeking warmth in the Montana winter.