The ferry from Santorini cuts through morning mist for 90 minutes before revealing Anafi. This tiny Cycladic island feels suspended in time, where 293 residents guard an unchanged way of life that tourism forgot. Here, Greece exists as it did in the 1970s: unhurried, authentic, free from cruise ship crowds.
A landscape time forgot
Anafi stretches across 15 square miles of arid beauty. Golden thyme bushes dot volcanic hillsides that haven’t seen a resort developer. Prickly pear cacti grow wild along footpaths where locals still walk to check on goats.
The island’s 293 permanent residents maintain rhythms established long before mass tourism reached the Aegean. Tourism only developed after 1974, when Greece’s military junta fell and electricity finally arrived. Nearby Koufonisia draws more visitors, but Anafi keeps its pre-tourism character intact.
Chora, the main village, clings to cliffs above the sea. Whitewashed houses with red-tile roofs cascade down narrow alleys designed to block fierce winds. No traffic lights exist. No chain stores operate here.
The monolith and the myth
Kalamos Rock rises 984 feet
Europe’s second-largest monolith towers above Anafi’s southeastern coast. Kalamos Rock stands nearly 1,000 feet tall, visible from Santorini on clear days. The 2.5-mile hike to its base takes visitors through countryside unchanged since ancient times.
Apollo’s temple ruins remain near the summit. Local tradition says the god illuminated this island when Jason’s Argonauts faced storms. The name Anafi means “he made it show up” in ancient Greek.
Argonaut mythology lives here
Archaeological evidence supports human habitation for over 4,000 years. The British Museum houses a statue of Apollo found here in the 1800s. Unlike commercialized Delos or crowded Santorini, Anafi preserves its mythological heritage without tour buses.
Recent archaeological surveys confirm temple foundations date to the 8th century BC. Authentic Mediterranean destinations like this become rarer each year as development spreads.
Wild beaches, free spirits
Roukounas stretches golden and untouched
The island’s longest beach extends nearly 2 miles along the southern coast. No loungers, no beach bars, no entrance fees interrupt the golden sand. Naturism remains quietly accepted here, reflecting attitudes from Greece’s free-thinking past.
Crystal-clear water stays warm enough for swimming through October. Water temperatures reach 77°F in summer, dropping to 61°F in winter. Free camping happens on weekends when young Greeks escape urban pressures.
Klisidi and Agios Nikolaos stay serene
These smaller beaches near the port offer easier access for day visitors. The half-mile walk from the ferry dock leads to Agios Nikolaos, where fishing boats still outnumber pleasure craft. Traditional tavernas serve meals for $12-18, featuring local specialties like briam vegetable stew.
Klisidi Beach provides the island’s best snorkeling. Remote islands worldwide face development pressure, but Anafi’s isolation protects its character.
The 70s feeling comes from people
Islanders maintain tolerance for alternative lifestyles that defined Greece before package tourism. Evening conversations happen at family tavernas where three generations serve traditional meals. Greek music, not international hits, fills the night air.
Local cuisine emphasizes ingredients grown here for centuries. Thyme honey, prickly pear fruit, and wild greens appear on every menu. The Arsenale cultural space, opened in 2024, hosts book readings and art exhibitions in a converted boat shed.
Accommodation costs 20-30% less than Santorini. Basic rooms start at $35 per night, mid-range apartments cost $65-110, while boutique options reach $130-220. Overtourism-free alternatives offer better value across the Mediterranean.
Your questions about Anafi answered
How do I reach Anafi?
Daily ferries run from Santorini in 90 minutes for about $10. Athens ferries take 5-8 hours and cost $45-65. Blue Star Ferries operates year-round service, though winter schedules reduce to once daily. Book ahead for January-February travel when weather affects schedules.
What should I expect in winter?
December through March brings 55-61°F temperatures and occasional rain. Most restaurants and hotels stay open year-round, unlike seasonal Greek islands. Winter visitors find nearly empty beaches and hiking trails. Sea temperatures drop to 61°F but remain swimmable for hardy souls.
How does Anafi compare to famous Greek islands?
Anafi receives fewer than 5,000 annual visitors compared to Santorini’s 2 million. Prices average 25% lower than Mykonos, with similar scenery minus the crowds. The island maintains traditional Greek rhythms that disappeared elsewhere decades ago. Tourism infrastructure remains minimal by design.
Golden light bathes Chora’s white walls each morning as fishing boats return with the night’s catch. Time moves differently here, measured not in Instagram moments but in conversations that stretch past midnight under star-filled skies unpolluted by resort lights.