The ancient stone streets of Amer hum with stories that few international travelers ever hear. Just 20 miles from the medieval splendor of Girona, this hidden Catalonian village offers an authentic slice of rural Spanish life that exists in striking contrast to the Game of Thrones filming locations that draw crowds to its more famous neighbor. What makes this overlooked gem worth discovering? Its position as a gateway to some of Catalonia’s most breathtaking natural landscapes and a cultural experience untouched by mass tourism.
A stone village where time moves differently
Tucked into the verdant Brugent valley, Amer’s honey-colored stone buildings and terra-cotta rooftops create a timeless tableau against the forested hills. Unlike the bustling medieval quarters of Girona, Amer’s narrow cobblestone streets offer a quieter rhythm, where local life unfolds at a decidedly unhurried pace. The town square comes alive on market days, when farmers display seasonal produce beneath the watchful gaze of historic facades.
The monastery that survived a medieval earthquake
At the heart of Amer stands the Santa Maria monastery, a remarkable 9th-century structure that survived the devastating Catalonian earthquake of 1427. Its stone walls have witnessed over a thousand years of history, from Moorish invasions to the Spanish Civil War. The monastery’s simple Romanesque architecture offers a striking contrast to the Renaissance grandeur found elsewhere in Europe.
Where pilgrims have walked for centuries
“Our village sits on an ancient path that pilgrims have followed for over a millennium,” explains Maria Puig, a local historian. “The Camino de Santiago passes right through Amer, bringing a special energy that connects us to something much larger than ourselves.” This spiritual significance adds a deeper dimension to walks along the town’s surrounding trails.
The natural paradise beyond the village
Amer serves as an ideal gateway to the volcanic region of La Garrotxa, where dormant volcanoes and beech forests create landscapes unlike anywhere else in Spain. The nearby trails offer experiences reminiscent of other spectacular natural wonders, albeit on a more intimate scale. Hikers can discover hidden waterfalls and panoramic vistas that few international visitors ever glimpse.
A culinary tradition preserved in family kitchens
While Girona boasts world-famous restaurants, Amer’s culinary scene remains delightfully unpretentious. Family-run establishments serve traditional Catalan dishes like trinxat (cabbage and potato hash) and botifarra amb mongetes (sausage with white beans). The recipes, passed down through generations, showcase ingredients sourced directly from surrounding farms.
“We cook the way our grandmothers taught us,” says Josep Martí, owner of a small tavern on Carrer Major. “Nothing fancy, just honest food that tells the story of this land.”
The cycling route that connects mountain to sea
Amer marks a crucial point along the Via Verde, a beloved cycling route that follows an abandoned railway line. This car-free path makes its way from the mountains to the Mediterranean, allowing cyclists to experience Catalonia’s diverse landscapes in a single journey. The old train station now serves as a welcoming rest stop for weary riders.
Where to stay to experience authentic village life
Unlike the medieval splendor of cliff-perched medieval towns found elsewhere in Europe, Amer offers simple, authentic accommodations. Consider Casa Rural El Molí, a converted farmhouse beside the Brugent River, or Hostal Giralt in the town center, where breakfast features homemade jams from local orchards.
The annual festival where traditions come alive
Each September, Amer transforms during its Festa Major. Streets fill with the rhythmic sounds of sardana dancing, giant papier-mâché figures parade through town, and the air carries the scent of grilling botifarra sausages. Unlike the polished cultural performances found in tourist centers, these celebrations remain genuinely local, offering a window into Catalonian identity.
Venture beyond Girona’s medieval walls to discover Amer, where authentic Catalonian life continues much as it has for centuries. In an age when overtourism threatens even the most remote European villages, Amer offers something increasingly precious: a genuine connection to a place where visitors are still welcomed as guests rather than consumers of an experience.