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I kayaked to this abandoned island with just one beach bar and discovered Montenegro’s secret paradise

I paddled three miles across turquoise waters, my muscles burning with effort, wondering if this minimalist adventure would be worth it. When I finally beached my kayak on Sveti Nikola’s pristine shore, I discovered Montenegro’s best-kept secret—an abandoned island paradise with just one beach, one bar, and nothing else.

The island time forgot

Sveti Nikola, often called “Montenegro’s Hawaii” by locals, sits tantalizingly close to the bustling resort town of Budva. At 1,750 meters long and 350 meters wide, this car-free haven feels worlds away from the mainland’s summer crowds. The island’s church ruins hint at its 16th-century past, now reclaimed by Mediterranean pines and cypress trees.

Getting there: the journey is the adventure

While regular taxi boats shuttle tourists from Budva’s Slovenska Plaza for about €5-7 round trip, the real magic happens when you arrive by your own power. I rented a paddleboard from Becici Beach, turning the 1km crossing into an exhilarating adventure. As I approached, the island’s wild southern cliffs revealed hidden coves accessible only to those willing to work for them.

Laguna Beach: the island’s crown jewel

The eastern shore hosts Laguna Beach, the island’s only commercial establishment. A simple wooden bar serves cold drinks beside rows of sun loungers (€20 rental). Unlike luxury Turkish gulet cruises where extravagance is expected, Sveti Nikola’s charm lies in its deliberate simplicity. The fine pebble beach slopes gently into crystal-clear waters perfect for snorkeling.

“The island was intentionally kept minimal,” explains Marko, who operates the small bar. “We want visitors to experience Montenegro as it was before mass tourism—just nature, sea, and silence.”

Secret southern coves

While most visitors stick to Laguna Beach, I paddled south to discover hidden limestone coves. Unlike the dramatic beaches of Scotland’s dark sky islands, these tiny inlets feel Mediterranean to their core—secluded, sun-drenched, and spectacularly clear. Pack water shoes; the stunning rock formations can be sharp underfoot.

The abandoned church with a view

A 15-minute hike through fragrant pines leads to St. Nicholas Church ruins on the northern tip. From here, I watched Budva’s medieval walls glowing in the distance. The crumbling stone arches frame a view that rivals those from France’s hilltop basilicas, yet I had it completely to myself.

Dawn patrol: the island at its best

I returned at sunrise the next day, when the water was mirror-calm and the island bathed in golden light. This early excursion—reminiscent of Provence’s magical dawn balloon rides—offered the day’s most magical moments. I swam through the southeast cave as sunbeams penetrated the turquoise depths.

“People come to Montenegro looking for postcard beaches, but they miss the wild places like Sveti Nikola’s southern shore,” said Nikola, a local kayak guide. “This is where you find the real Adriatic.”

A note on timing and essentials

Visit April-May or September-November to avoid crowds. Remember water shoes, sun protection, and cash—the bar doesn’t accept cards. Outside food and drinks aren’t allowed, so budget accordingly. Unlike islands with hidden historical sites, Sveti Nikola’s appeal is its breathtaking simplicity.

Why minimalism matters

In an era of over-tourism, Sveti Nikola offers a refreshing counterpoint—a destination defined by what it lacks rather than what it contains. No WiFi. No souvenir shops. No accommodation. Just mountains, sea, and sky in perfect harmony. The island reminded me that sometimes, less truly is more.

As I paddled back to Budva, muscles aching but spirit soaring, I knew this minimalist island had delivered the summer’s most meaningful adventure. Sometimes, all you need is one perfect beach, one humble bar, and absolutely nothing else.