I kayaked from Porthmellon to New Grimsby Harbour in the Isles of Scilly last week, and what unfolded was nothing short of magical. Four miles of pristine turquoise waters with only seals for company—no crowds, no noise pollution, just the rhythmic splash of my paddle cutting through crystal-clear Atlantic waves.
The hidden archipelago most Americans never discover
The Isles of Scilly sit just 28 miles off England’s southwestern tip, yet remain delightfully undiscovered by most international travelers. This remote archipelago offers a tranquility that’s becoming increasingly rare in today’s tourist-saturated world. While St. Mary’s (home to Porthmellon Beach) serves as the main island, the short paddle to New Grimsby Harbour on Tresco reveals the archipelago’s true character—wild, unspoiled, and magnificently quiet.
Where seals become your paddling companions
About halfway through my journey, I noticed several curious heads bobbing in the water around me. Atlantic grey seals, with their dog-like faces and inquisitive eyes, had decided to escort me across the sound. Unlike Scottish islands where wildlife viewing often involves competing with other tourists, here I had these magnificent creatures entirely to myself.
The seals here aren’t just used to people—they’re genuinely curious about us. They’ll often follow kayakers for miles, just for the social interaction,” explained Mike, a local guide I met at Porthmellon before setting out.
Between islands: a water world of shimmering clarity
The route between Porthmellon and New Grimsby crosses some of the clearest waters I’ve ever seen. The shallow sandy bottom creates an almost tropical appearance—vibrant teals and turquoise blues that could easily be mistaken for the Mediterranean. At certain points, the water clarity allows you to spot starfish, crabs, and even the occasional shipwreck remnant through depths of 15-20 feet.
Cromwell’s Castle: paddling through history
As New Grimsby Harbour came into view, the imposing silhouette of Cromwell’s Castle emerged on Tresco’s northwestern shore. This 17th-century fortress stands as a stark reminder of the islands’ strategic importance throughout British history. Paddling beneath its weathered granite walls feels like drifting through time itself—something you’d never experience from a crowded ferry.
When to go: the secret season most visitors miss
While summer brings warmer temperatures, the real magic happens during May and late September. These shoulder months offer the perfect combination of mild weather, reduced visitor numbers, and—crucially for kayakers—calmer seas. The Atlantic can be notoriously unpredictable, so timing your visit is essential.
September is when Scilly reveals its true character. The summer crowds disperse, the Atlantic settles, and the seals become even more playful as their pupping season approaches,” shares Elizabeth, owner of a small kayak rental company on St. Mary’s.
The off-grid experience that rivals mountain dome retreats
Unlike tiny French villages overwhelmed by tourism, the Isles of Scilly maintain their authentic character. The archipelago operates largely on renewable energy, with limited Wi-Fi and spotty cell service. This digital detox element makes the kayaking experience even more immersive—you’re truly present with each paddle stroke, each seal encounter, each changing tide.
Following in prime ministerial paddle strokes
Interestingly, I discovered I wasn’t the first to seek solace in these waters. The islands have attracted notable figures seeking respite from public life, including former British Prime Minister Harold Wilson, who found true peace here after decades in politics. Wilson was known to explore these same channels by boat, drawn by the same tranquility that captivated me.
The Mediterranean-like beaches without Mediterranean crowds
Upon reaching New Grimsby, I beached my kayak on a crescent of powder-white sand that could easily rival the Caribbean-blue waters of Italian islands. The difference? I had this stretch entirely to myself—something unimaginable in more famous European destinations. The Scillies’ remoteness has preserved what most Mediterranean beaches lost decades ago: solitude.
Getting there: the journey that keeps the crowds away
The effort required to reach the Isles of Scilly—flights from Cornwall or a sometimes choppy ferry crossing—serves as a natural filter, keeping mass tourism at bay. For kayakers, this translates to empty paddling routes where you can glide for hours without seeing another human. The journey from mainland England becomes part of the adventure, a deliberate slowing down before you even touch the water.
As I pulled my kayak ashore at New Grimsby, watching seals playfully splash in my wake, I realized I’d found something increasingly precious in our over-touristed world—a genuine wilderness experience that doesn’t require traveling to the ends of the earth. Just a short flight from London, these islands offer the rare gift of solitude on waters so clear and teeming with life that you’ll wonder why everyone else is fighting for space in the Mediterranean.