I discovered a hidden gem that changed my perspective on British island getaways. For just £60, I experienced a night in a historic stone cottage overlooking Hugh Town harbor on St. Mary’s Island in the Isles of Scilly. The experience was worth far more than the modest price tag.
A quaint harbor capital with centuries of maritime charm
Hugh Town sits on a narrow isthmus connecting the main part of St. Mary’s to an area called The Garrison. With just under 1,000 residents, this tiny capital feels more like a village than a town. Stone cottages with slate roofs line narrow streets that wind toward a harbor bustling with boats and activity.
From my cottage window, I watched fishing vessels return with their catches as inter-island ferries shuttled visitors to nearby islands. The harbor, owned by the Duchy of Cornwall, serves as the lifeline of this remote archipelago located 28 miles off Cornwall’s coast.
Budget accommodation with million-dollar views
While £60 won’t typically secure harbor-view accommodations during peak season, traveling in late autumn rewarded me with this unexpected bargain. My cottage featured thick granite walls that had withstood centuries of Atlantic storms, modern amenities, and a small balcony perfect for morning coffee while watching boats depart.
“Our stone cottages were built to last generations,” explained Martha, a longtime resident. “Some of these buildings have sheltered islanders for over 200 years, through countless storms and changing tides.”
Transportation that adds to the adventure
Arriving in Hugh Town itself is part of the experience. Visitors can choose between the Scillonian III ferry from Penzance (a three-hour journey) or a brief 15-minute flight from Land’s End Airport. Once on St. Mary’s, the charming community bus (£2.50 flat fare) connects Hugh Town with the rest of the island on a 17-minute loop.
For those seeking island-hopping adventures, unique transportation methods are common on British islands, though none quite as dramatic as the tidal beach runways found elsewhere.
Morning magic from Buzza Hill
At dawn, I climbed nearby Buzza Hill for a panoramic view that took my breath away. Golden light washed over Hugh Town’s clustered stone buildings, illuminating the harbor where boats rested on a mirror-like sea. This viewpoint offers the quintessential Scilly Islands photo opportunity that few visitors discover.
The tranquility reminded me of unspoiled islands before mass tourism, preserving their natural charm and authentic character.
Exploring beyond the harbor
While the harbor views captivated me, the island offers much more. Star Castle, built in 1593 and now a hotel, sits atop the Garrison hill. Walking the defensive walls provides stunning coastal panoramas. Porthcressa Beach, just steps from town, offers golden sands and crystal waters that seem transported from the Caribbean.
“The beauty of Hugh Town is having everything at your doorstep,” shared Tom, a local tour guide. “Within a five-minute walk, you can visit historic fortifications, relax on pristine beaches, or enjoy fresh seafood at waterfront restaurants.”
Accommodations for every budget
My £60 stone cottage experience demonstrated the value available in Hugh Town. Similar to unique budget accommodations worldwide, these cottages offer authenticity that luxury hotels often cannot match.
From self-catering apartments to historic inns and unusual waterfront options, Hugh Town provides diverse lodging choices regardless of budget.
A photographer’s paradise at every turn
The changing light throughout the day transforms Hugh Town’s appearance. Morning fog often gives way to brilliant sunshine, while golden hour bathes the stone buildings in warm hues. The harbor at dawn offers silhouettes of fishing boats against the rising sun – a scene worthy of any travel magazine.
Like special viewpoints that transform your understanding of sunrise, my cottage window framed a living painting that changed hourly with the tides, weather, and harbor activities.
My £60 night in Hugh Town delivered an authentic island experience that luxury cannot buy – genuine connection with a place where time moves according to tides rather than clocks, and where stone cottages have witnessed centuries of island life while standing firm against Atlantic storms.