{"id":63796,"date":"2026-09-22T06:52:08","date_gmt":"2026-09-22T10:52:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.journee-mondiale.com\/en\/overlooked-by-tourists-this-new-zealand-town-sits-in-a-bay-with-144-islands\/"},"modified":"2026-09-22T06:52:08","modified_gmt":"2026-09-22T10:52:08","slug":"overlooked-by-tourists-this-new-zealand-town-sits-in-a-bay-with-144-islands","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.journee-mondiale.com\/en\/overlooked-by-tourists-this-new-zealand-town-sits-in-a-bay-with-144-islands\/","title":{"rendered":"Overlooked by tourists, this New Zealand town sits in a bay with 144 islands"},"content":{"rendered":"

Russell<\/strong> is the quieter waterfront town in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands, where 144 islands<\/strong> scatter across sheltered water. Tourists often choose busier Paihia, but Russell gives you calmer evenings, heritage buildings, and a ferry ride that feels like part of the trip.<\/p>\n

And the town has a past far rougher than its polished caf\u00e9s suggest. Once called Koror\u0101reka, it was one of New Zealand’s earliest European settlements and earned the grim nickname \u201cHell Hole of the Pacific\u201d<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Why Russell feels different from Paihia<\/h2>\n

But Russell is easy to reach, which makes its quietness more surprising. The passenger ferry from Paihia takes 15 minutes<\/strong>, crossing water used for sailing, kayaking, fishing, cruises, and wildlife trips.<\/p>\n

And you can walk straight from the ferry toward The Strand, where the waterfront opens onto caf\u00e9s, restaurants, galleries, and views across the bay. The mood is lively, but never loud, especially when the last boat leaves and the water settles.<\/p>\n

That contrast is Russell’s strongest argument. Paihia has more transport connections and tour operators, while Russell feels more suited to travelers who want heritage sites, coastal walks, and relaxed dining without planning every hour.<\/p>\n

One church holds the town’s difficult history<\/h2>\n

But Christ Church<\/strong> is where Russell’s past becomes tangible. The church dates from 1835<\/strong>, and its churchyard includes evidence connected to the 1845 Battle of Koror\u0101reka.<\/p>\n

And you don’t need a long museum visit to feel the weight of that history. The weathered headstones, quiet churchyard, and nearby waterfront make the story feel close enough to touch.<\/p>\n

From there, visit Pompallier Mission and Printery for more context on early Catholic missionary activity and printing in New Zealand. It is a compact heritage stop, but it gives the town’s old buildings a sharper meaning.<\/p>\n

Can you see the islands without a long expedition?<\/h3>\n

Yes. Boat trips leave from Russell or nearby Paihia for sailing, kayaking, fishing, and cruises toward Cape Brett and the Hole in the Rock.<\/p>\n

And the Bay of Islands is best understood from the water. The islands break up the horizon, the sheltered bays soften the crossing, and the ferry wake gives you a quick sense of how close everything is.<\/p>\n

Flagstaff Hill gives Russell its best view<\/h2>\n

But the climb to Flagstaff Hill<\/strong>, also called Te Maiki, is the walk I’d choose first. From above, you can see Paihia, Waitangi, and the surrounding islands spread across the bay.<\/p>\n

And you should go when the light is clear, because the view depends on the water and distant shorelines staying distinct. The walk is worthwhile, though Russell’s hills mean comfortable shoes matter more than a polished itinerary.<\/p>\n

For a slower afternoon, head to Long Beach<\/strong> on the ocean side of the peninsula. Its sandy bay is a short walk or drive from town, giving you an easy change of pace after the heritage stops.<\/p>\n

When to go, and how long to stay<\/h2>\n

And Russell works year-round, but March and April are especially practical, with warm water and fewer crowds than peak summer. October through December brings spring and early-summer conditions before the busiest holiday period.<\/p>\n

But late December and early January are popular, so accommodation and tours need earlier planning. If you want Russell at its calmest, visit outside that holiday rush and let the waterfront set the day’s rhythm.<\/p>\n

From Auckland, allow about three hours by road<\/strong> to the Bay of Islands, depending on your route. Without a car, take the passenger ferry from Paihia; with one, drive into Russell.<\/p>\n

And give yourself two nights<\/strong> if you can. One day covers Russell, Long Beach, Flagstaff Hill, and the heritage sites, while another leaves room for a boat trip or time across the water at Waitangi.<\/p>\n

By evening, Russell’s waterfront grows quiet, with the ferry wake fading beyond The Strand. That is when the old \u201cHell Hole\u201d feels furthest away, and the bay belongs to the darkening islands.<\/p>\n


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