{"id":58728,"date":"2026-08-17T14:23:26","date_gmt":"2026-08-17T18:23:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.journee-mondiale.com\/en\/on-this-greek-island-at-least-2700-babies-and-young-children-were-buried-in-jars\/"},"modified":"2026-08-17T14:23:26","modified_gmt":"2026-08-17T18:23:26","slug":"on-this-greek-island-at-least-2700-babies-and-young-children-were-buried-in-jars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.journee-mondiale.com\/en\/on-this-greek-island-at-least-2700-babies-and-young-children-were-buried-in-jars\/","title":{"rendered":"On this Greek island, at least 2,700 babies and young children were buried in jars"},"content":{"rendered":"

Astypalaia<\/strong> is shaped like a butterfly, but its most arresting story sits on the western side of Chora\u2019s castle hill. At Kylindra, archaeologists found the world\u2019s largest known cemetery for infants and young children.<\/p>\n

At least 2,700 burials<\/strong> were made in ceramic jars. The children were newborns or under two, and the graves stretch from about 750 BC into Roman times.<\/p>\n

But this isn\u2019t an island where tragedy swallows the day. You arrive to white houses, windmills, and the hard blue light of the Dodecanese, then realize its deepest history is almost underfoot.<\/p>\n

Kylindra changes how you see Chora<\/h2>\n

Kylindra<\/strong> lies on the west flank of the castle hill, where modern Chora occupies the ancient city\u2019s old center. The burial ground was excavated by Greece\u2019s archaeological service, and its scale makes the island\u2019s small size feel beside the point.<\/p>\n

And the jars explain why so many remains survived. In ancient Greece, infants were often buried in trade vessels such as amphorae.<\/p>\n

But you shouldn\u2019t expect a polished memorial experience with easy answers.<\/p>\n

The collection is held at University College London<\/strong>, where researchers have studied childhood growth and development. That distance gives the story an uneasy weight: the island holds the place, while much of the physical evidence lives elsewhere.<\/p>\n

The castle hill gives the island its contrast<\/h2>\n

Chora climbs above Pera Gialos in compact white lanes, crowned by a Venetian castle and windmills. You can feel the village tighten as it rises, with stone underfoot and bright walls catching the afternoon glare.<\/p>\n

And the ancient city is not separate from daily life. Older houses and the castle reuse worked stone from earlier monuments, so the island\u2019s past appears in walls people still pass every day.<\/p>\n

But Astypalaia doesn\u2019t trade only on archaeology. The hilltop town is lively in summer, yet it lacks the dense nightlife and large-resort feel that shape busier Greek islands.<\/p>\n

That\u2019s why the cemetery story lands harder here than it would in a museum district. You can spend the morning considering more than 2,700 young lives<\/strong>, then hear cups scrape across a quiet square by evening.<\/p>\n

Beaches keep the day from becoming too heavy<\/h2>\n

Livadi is the convenient sandy choice near Chora. Beyond it, the island\u2019s rocky coast breaks into small pebble beaches and bays, and you\u2019ll want a rental car, scooter, or boat if remote water is the point.<\/p>\n

And the narrow middle of Astypalaia at Steno. That pinch creates the island\u2019s winged outline and leaves the sea feeling close even when you\u2019re crossing inland.<\/p>\n

But don\u2019t come expecting every cove to be effortless. The more secluded spots reward your transport plan, and the island\u2019s geography makes casual wandering less useful than it looks on a map.<\/p>\n

For me, that\u2019s the right trade. A scooter ride toward a quiet bay feels earned, especially after Chora\u2019s white walls and castle hill have held your attention all morning.<\/p>\n

Getting there filters out the crowds<\/h2>\n

The simplest route is a flight from Athens to Astypalaia Island National Airport, near Maltezana. The trip takes about one hour<\/strong>, which makes the island practical without making it feel overrun.<\/p>\n

And ferries connect Astypalaia with Piraeus and other Cycladic and Dodecanese islands. They are seasonal and less frequent beyond summer, so you should treat the schedule as part of the trip, not a detail to solve later.<\/p>\n

But ferry access has a cost. A missed connection can reshape your plans, and the island is better for travelers who can leave a little room around arrival and departure days.<\/p>\n

Once there, Chora sits above the old harbor while Livadi and Analipsi, also called Maltezana, offer other bases. You can choose your rhythm, though the island is compact enough that its calm reaches all three.<\/p>\n

Late spring and September are the smart choice<\/h2>\n

Choose late May through June<\/strong> or September for warm water, open restaurants, and fewer people. You\u2019ll usually find better value then, because July and August bring hotter weather and tighter transport and lodging.<\/p>\n

And September is particularly good for travelers who want the island\u2019s softer pace. The sea still matters, but the day no longer feels organized around securing a table or catching the last available room.<\/p>\n

But Astypalaia isn\u2019t built for someone who wants constant action. It is quieter than the Greek islands most Americans already know, and that is exactly its appeal.<\/p>\n

By dusk, Chora\u2019s windmills turn dark against the hill, and the sound from Pera Gialos rises faintly below. The jars at Kylindra remain part of the island\u2019s ground, long after the harbor lights come on.<\/p>\n


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